“[L]ive in a city long enough and your perception of its streets becomes a fusion of past and present. A new shop opens in a one-time watering hole that was formerly a bakery that was once a five-and-dime. Each new incarnation builds upon the past, sometimes leaving a glimpse of history — a bit of molding, the arch of a doorway — reminding us that the present adds yet another layer on what came before.
Which is exactly what can be said for Empire Chinese Kitchen, Maine’s first dim sum restaurant, located in the heart of Portland’s downtown on Congress Street. This relative newcomer on the Portland dining scene is housed in what was formerly a dine-and-dance club, a dive bar, a bank, and, if you dig back far enough, Portland’s first “deluxe” Chinese restaurant, Empire Chop Suey (1916–1953), which offered formal table service and starched linens.”
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